Arzak

Taste explosions and food magic abound at Michelin 3-star Arzak, set in San Sebastian in the Basque region of Spain. Out of a degustacion menu that runs to 22 courses, including four amuse and five mignardise, after four desserts, several things stand way out.

In the amuse, a "pudding" of Kabrarroka fish wrapped in fried fideo noodless on a skewer is subtly fishy and fresh. A “bola”—globule of wild mushroom soup dusted in popcorn powder is truly amusing and delicious—earthy and deep. A round of grilled apple topped with a wafer of caramelized foie gras, drizzled in foie oil looks and tastes astounding.

The most amazing course by far is tirero alla gallina—an orange-yolked farm egg “griddled” on the plancha, atop a square of crispy chicken skin, topped by a  translucent sheet of freeze-dried egg yolk, the whole knapped with ultra reduced chicken broth and drizzled with sharp olive oil—astonishing and scrumptious.

Small tranches of grilled lenguado—sole—are accompanied by crispy nuggets of sweetbread, tiny morcels of coconut macaroon and drizzled with ginger oil.

The most interesting dessert—sopa y chocolate…..pairs Idiazabla cheese ice cream with chocolate “bullets” in a strawberry conserve ‘soup’. Chocolate balls are frozen, coated in gelatin, dropped into boiling water to melt the chocolate, and set the gelatin, creating the “bullets”. The in-mouth explosion is impossible not to laugh with delight over.

Elena inquires from where we come, and seems delighted by the idea of Sonoma, which she’s heard of but not visited. Chatting with her for a moment near meal’s end, I tell her we will return and would like to visit the “taste room” where they house 1500 spices and flavors. “You must just tell me in your email, and I will show you” she enthuses.

Service is impeccable, ultra accommodating, and very friendly. No snootiness, true care about the customers’ wishes and happiness. Both chefs circulate during service, Elena and her father Juan Mari, and are friendly to all—not just the great and powerful. Both Arzaks bring laughter and love of life and food to the experience. It involves both high theater and food magic—and the food is photo: Arzakseriously good and creative. Great food, a great experience, and of course, a great big bill.